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Silk
How products made from silk impact animals
~ Agriculture Holdings International LLC
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Silk is made from the cocoons of the Bombyx Mori moth. The caterpillars must eat around 187kg of mulberry leaves to produce just one kilogram of silk. The caterpillars spin their cocoons around 300,000 times before it is complete. However, the moth is not permitted to emerge, as the enzymes in their saliva used to create a hole for their exit would damage the silk strands. To prevent this, Silkworms are boiled alive in their cocoons before emerging.
Fast Facts
Moth Memories
RESEARCH SHOWS INSECTS FEEL PAIN; MOTHS REMEMBER BEING CATERPILLARS
Research conducted at Georgetown University by Professor Martha Weiss shows that caterpillars and moths are more intelligent than they may have been credited for and can make relevant connections to their lives.
The insects show the capacity to learn and avoid food and experiences that could be dangerous for them. Research has shown that moths can remember things they learnt as caterpillars.
Selective Breeding
BREEDING MOTHS THAT CAN'T FLY
Humans have selectively bred silkworms for a period of over around 5000 years. Over this period, the silk production of the species has increased tenfold.
The Bombyx Mori moth's bodies have become very large, and their wings very small, so today, the species cannot fly.
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Wild silkworms spin a yellow cocoon that blends in with the leaves. Selective breeding has led to the species becoming whiter, a trait that would not help their survival in the wild; however, producing white silk makes it easier for the fibres to be dyed.
BOILED ALIVE
METAMORPHOSIS CUT SHORT
A silkworm spins their cocoon by rotating their body through a figure-of-8 motion around 300,000 times. The caterpillar then goes through their pupal phase within the cocoon over roughly 14 days.
When ready, the pupa releases proteolytic enzymes, creating a hole in the cocoon so they can emerge as adult moths. These enzymes cause the silk fibres of the cocoon to break down into randomly lengthed segments, seriously reducing the value of the silk threads.
Instead of allowing the insect to emerge, which damages the silk, silkworm cocoons are boiled, killing the silkworms.
CHILD AND FORCED LABOUR
SILK PRODUCING COUNTRIES ON WATCH
According to the U.S. Department of Labor's 2018 "List of Goods Produced by Child Labor or Forced Labor", silk is widely reported to be produced using child labour in India and forced labour in Uzbekistan. India is the second largest producer of silk worldwide, and Uzbekistan is the third largest.
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
SILKS HEAVY FOOTPRINT
The Bombyx mori caterpillars are fed a diet of Mulberry leaves, with over 187kg of leaves required to produce just 1kg of Silk.
The Mulberry trees grown to feed the silkworms are typically fertilised using animal manure which adds to the significant environmental impact of silk production. Life Cycle Assessment Reports have shown that:
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"Silk production following recommended practices is input-intensive and that on a mass basis, environmental impacts are above those reported for other natural fibres."
Another contributing factor to Silk's heavy environmental impact is the reeling and processing processes. These processes involve a high use of fossil fuels.
HEALTH IMPACT ON WORKERS
BURNS, POISONING & MORE
Reports have shown that most silkworm rearers in Kashmir suffer from health problems like eye irritation, injuries, back pain, allergies, respiratory issues and headache. Burns from steam or boiling water are not uncommon.
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Each phase of rearing silkworms for silk production carries different health risks, from exposure to glyphosate and pesticides in the production of Mulberry leaves, carbon monoxide poisoning from burning coal to maintain a constant temperature when raising the silkworms, the use of bleach and carcinogenic disinfectants, to burns and scalds when boiling or steaming the cocoons, and then chemical burns or poisoning from dying the silk fibres.
"AHIMSA" SILK
THE REALITY BEHIND 'PEACE' SILK
Ahimsa, or "peace" Silk, is produced by only extracting silk after the moths have emerged from the cocoons. Ahimsa silk is marketed to appear cruelty-free to buyers seeking a more ethical alternative.
The reality of Ahimsa silk production is far from cruelty-free. In practice, all silkworms are raised in the same manner. They are then taken to market in the cocoon state, where they will either be purchased by Ahimsa silk or regular silk producers.
On emerging from the cocoons, female moths are retained for just three hours to allow them to mate. The males are separated out after breeding and placed in the refrigerator in a semi-frozen condition until they are brought out again to mate. Once their condition deteriorates to a state where they can no longer mate, they are thrown in the dustbin and left to die.
The Bombyx mori moth, having been selectively bred, suffers many disabilities. They cannot fly, having been bred to have very large bodies with tiny wings.
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An investigation on “ahimsa” silk production by Beauty Without Cruelty, India, revealed that after female moths lay eggs, they are immediately ground in a mixer, and their crushed bodies are checked under a microscope. The hundreds of eggs they just laid are destroyed if any disease is detected.
Coming up roses
Wear it kind
Silk comes with a dark side, known for its cruelty, inefficient production, and the use of forced labor. Moreover, it has significant environmental drawbacks, such as its high water consumption and pesticide use in traditional sericulture practices.
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In contrast, the alternatives listed below offer a kinder option. They don't rely on unnecessary harm to animals, and they carry a much lower risk of human rights violations. Plus, it's possible to find transparent, ethical supply chains for each of these eco-friendly options.
Today there are a growing number of alternatives to silk that are better for the environment and spare silkworms and sericulture workers a life of suffering.
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Kinder Options
Bamboo Lyocell
Bamboo Lyocell is similar to Tencel, in that it follows a closed-loop production process, ensuring minimal environmental impact. Bamboo Lyocell is derived from a fast-growing plant without uprooting it, making replanting unnecessary. It's a win for both nature and fashion!
Micro-silk
Microsilk™ is a silk-like biosynthetic fiber made by the company Bolt Threads. Microsilk™ is made through a process of fermenting water, yeast and sugar with spider DNA. The resulting fibre has the potential to biodegrade.
Rose-Petal Silk
Rose petal silk is a new cellulose fibre made from rose bushes. It has a silk-like handle and soft drape while being incredibly lustrous. The rose petal fibre is extracted from the natural waste of the rose petals and rose bushes. The fibre is then stripped and processed to create a luxurious soft silk-like fabric. This sustainable fabric is biodegradable, eco-friendly and easy to dye.
It is ideal for sampling, shirting, sleepwear, lining, bridal and formal wear.
Cupro
Cupro, a sustainable choice, is crafted from cotton linter fiber, which is the soft fuzz surrounding cotton seeds. By utilizing cotton waste, this fabric offers both a silky feel and biodegradability, making it an excellent eco-friendly substitute for brushed silk when responsibly sourced.
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Additionally, certain Cupro production employs a closed-loop system, where nearly all the water and chemicals used in the process are recycled. This further enhances its eco-friendly credentials.